Hatching
and raising waterfowl
If you do not wish to hatch
waterfowl using a broody , or if you want the more
'hands on' technique you can hatch the eggs in an incubator.
Incubators are readily available. Many produce stores have them, or
there are speciality shops Australia-wide who will mail order them to
you. Incubators come in a wide range of sizes and shapes, some holding
a handful of eggs, others holding 1000s. It is always a personal
preference as to what brand you use. Often the larger incubators can be
as cheap to run as the smaller ones.
The basic principle of all incubators is the same. To keep the air
temperature around the eggs constant to allow easy hatching. There are
two types of incubators: (1) still air - the air does not circulate, it
is
heated by the element and kept at that temperature; and (2) Fan Forced
which
circulate the air constantly around the eggs. Fan forced tend to be
more reliable compared to the still airs in most situations.
Incubators need a constant humidity. Most incubators on the market now
have a wet bulb thermometer which measures the humidity in the
incubator. Others don't - for the ones that don't spraying the eggs
twice a day with warm water is usually sufficient.
Eggs need to be turned a minimum of two or three times a day. Often
this means
physically turning them - put a cross on one side of the egg with a
pencil so you know which side to turn. Alternatively you can purchase
incubators with an automatic turning system.
Hen eggs take 18-21 days to hatch. Some breeds hatch faster than
others so do not throw the eggs away because 5 hatched on the 20th day.
Some people wait to 25 days.
Mallard derived ducks (anything except for muscovies) take 28-30 days.
Muscovies take 34-37 days.
Geese take 30 days to hatch.
Once hatched, the young birds should be allowed to either dry in the
incubator or placed in a clean brooder box. A brooder box is designed
to provide ample heat for the young birds until they feather.
Brooder boxes need to be
large enough to accomodate your birds until around 5 weeks of age.
A brooder box can be made of
cardboard or wood. Basically, have a box fully unclosed with room to
have two lamp fittings running. Place for the first week two 40 watt
incandescent
globes, then you can graduate down to a 40 and a 25 watt for the second
to fourth weeks and then two 25 watt incandescent globes from 4 weeks
to six weeks.
Depending on the time of year, some birds may need longer in the
brooder
boxes, especially if you are in a cold winter snap.
The basic principles of raising chickens
apply to raising them in brooders.
You need to feeed and water your young birds at least twice a day, and
clean their litter when dirty.
Between 5 and 7 weeks of
age,it is usually possible to graduate birds from the brooder box.
They should then go to a clean pen
with lots of shavings. For the first week or two, they are given a
upended cardboard box with doorways cut in the side. The birds can then
huddle inside if it is cold and their body heat is trapped by the box.
Often chickens will need some assistance with getting inside for the
first few nights.
Once out side, they can be let out to free range at 8-10 weeks of age.
Bear in mind they will get into everything. At about 15 weeks of age
you can introduce them to the older birds. At this age, they
are old enough to fend for themselves, but keep and eye out for them,
and make sure they are not suffering too much. -If they are, remove
them
and try again in a week or two.
Between 18 and 25 weeks the eggs will start coming. At this age they
are Point of Lay pullets. The eggs will be small at first and will
increase in size with age.

Mixed Day Old Goslings